Crossing into Abkhazia

I couldn’t cross into Russia from Georgia at Kazbegi (the border was closed three years ago and it seemed far too risky to cross in the mountains for fear of soldiers and mines.

My other options were to cross into South Ossetia or Abkhazia, or a ferry service to Ukraine and from there to Russia.  I’d always been fascinated about the 2008 South Ossetia war and initially planned to cross at South Ossetia however decided against it after passing a military checkpoint and hearing from locals that it’s not too safe for foreigners.

This left me with crossing into Abkhazia. I knew the most dangerous region was the Kodori Gorge, not too far from Svaneti and so decided to not head that way. I’d heard that the main highway linking Kutaisi to Sokhumi was closed at the border between the regions and thus my best bet was to head to the last major town on the Georgian side, Zugdidi and find a way from there to Abkhazia.

I arrive in Zugdidi and am faced with a daunting task, working out where I can cross the border from. There’s a heavy military and police presence in Zugdidi, and large displays of Georgian pride in the form of flags, including the following in the centre:

I apply discretion and decide against asking locals where to cross and instead hop onto the internet to find a map of the region. I find a town right on the border with Abkhazia, with a bridge heading into the region, not too far from the railroad and decide that I will try from there.

Next task, getting some Roubles, which isn’t that difficult given how many currency exchanging offices there are in the town, further reinforcing that I’ve come to the right place.

I find a marshrutka stand and ask people how to get to Inguri. I get a few strange looks but am pointed in the right direction.

I can’t believe my luck, the marshrutka takes us right to the border, everyone on board is heading to Abkhazia. I get out of the marshrutka and notice a Georgian police checkpoint, but the men inside aren’t paying much attention so I decide to not bother them and walk very hastily in the direction beyond the checkpoint where several passengers have gone before me.

“STOP!” I ignore the direction. “Hey you, come here!”. My pulse quickens, I’ve been spotted by the police and they’re waving me over, time to play it cool. I gather my thoughts, check quickly to make sure that my Australian passport is separate from my Russian passport, which is out of sight and casually walk over to the police.

Me: Gamar Joba (Georgian for hello), how can I help you? (in English)

Policeman: What are you doing here?

Me: I heard there was a war here last year, I wanted to see the border.

Policeman: Are you a reporter?

Me: Do I look like a reporter? I’m just a traveller, reporters dress much better than me.

Policeman: Hmm, ok, show me your passport.

Me: *hand over Australian Passport*

Policeman: *thoroughly inspects every page* (I presume he’s looking for an Abkhazian visa).

Policeman: Ok *looks at the photo page*, wait. Ivan Alexandrovich?

Me: Yeah?

Policeman: Is that a patronymic? – All Russians have a patronymic (in Russian Otchistvo), their fathers name with a different ending. I’m Ivan Alexandrovich, my sisters are Daria and Elizabeth Alexandrovna.

Me: Yes. *getting slightly nervous, I’m starting to think he suspects that I’m Russian*

Policeman: Born in Moscow?

Me: Yeah, but I was too young to remember it, we left to Australia a LONG time ago.

Policeman: ты говориш по Русски (Russian for do you speak Russian)?

Me: чуть чуть (a little) – I reply trying extra hard to make sure my Russian accent sounds incredibly bad.

Policeman: Are you going to Abkhazia? *Here it comes*

Me: No, it’s too dangerous. I just want to see it, is it ok to take a photo of it? *Why is he not telling me to go away, or asking for my Russian passport or arresting me?*

Policeman: You’re sure you’re not a reporter? – At this point he’s joined by a few more policemen, one who offers me some grapes while eyeing me suspiciously.

Me: No, have a look through my dirty unwashed clothes if you want, I’m just  a traveller.

Policeman: Ok, you can go through as far as the bridge, but don’t you dare to set foot on the bridge and do not point your camera in the direction of our soldiers, only at Abkhazia. – He records all my passport details in the notebook, I note that in the past two weeks only a couple of foreigners have been recorded, perhaps they’re part of some Human Rights organisation or reporters with permission. After recording my details, the policeman returns me my passport.

I thank the man and casually walk towards the bridge and Abkhazia, maintaining my cool the whole time, despite the nerves.